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Carbon fiber is a unique material, offering a high

Here at Steve's Detector Rods, a standard shaft, is one that is capped at the "arm-cuff end" or "butt-end" of the shaft by a simple, snap-in plastic end cap. Meanwhile, a counterweight-ready shaft is identical to a standard shaft, except that the counterweight-ready model includes the installation of a threaded fitting at the "butt end," and is then capped by a screw-in end cap. This threaded fitting is what enables attachment of the optional counterweight system that is offered exclusively by Steve's Detector Rods. ... [more]

A counterweight is simply weight that is added to an item, to "balance" an otherwise "out-of-balance" situation. At Steve's, a counterweight refers to a carbon-fiber tube, with a threaded fitting installed at one end (to screw into and attach to a "counterweight- ready" shaft), and a screw-on cap at the other end. This screw-on cap allows access to the inside of the counterweight tube, where small, sealed bags of lead shot reside. The counterweights are available in different lengths, that therefore are capable of containing differing amounts of weight, which can be tailored to the needs of a given user. ... [more]

The purpose of counterweighting is to reduce fatigue and/or discomfort, that is experienced by many users of modern metal detectors -- which are in most cases inherently nose-heavy. The nose-heaviness of these units stems from the fact that as batteries have gotten smaller, and electronics have become more compact and lightweight, the single heaviest component on a metal detector has become the coil. And since this coil sits at the end of a long "lever" (your shaft), with virtually no "compensating" weight at the other end (the arm-cuff end, or "butt" end of the shaft), modern machines are therefore most often substantially nose-heavy -- i.e. imbalanced (from an ergonomics perspective). Counterweighting acts to resolve that imbalance, resulting in a more ergonomically correct, and thus comfortable, machine. For additional details, see question 5, below. ... [more]

While adding weight to a detector will obviously add weight to the unit, the paradoxical answer to this question is NO! In most cases, a nose-heavy machine (which most modern machines are) will actually be more comfortable to swing with counterweight added, than without! The reason for that, can be explained by understanding what I refer to as "absolute" weight, versus "effective" weight. Absolute weight is the overall weight of a machine, as measured by a scale. Obviouly, the "absolute weight" of a machine will increase, when you add counterweight. BUT -- as I mentioned before, most modern machines are "nose-heavy" (i.e. nearly all of the weight resides at the "coil end" of the machine, with almost no weight at the "arm cuff end" or "butt end" of the machine). This imbalance, or effective weight as I like to call it, is actually what causes the fatigue and discomfort for most detectorists, NOT (in most cases) the "absolute weight" of the unit. Of course, keeping a machine as light as possible is an important consideration, but NOT at the expense of balance! Let's illustrate why this is the case.

Consider a long board, perhaps 8 feet long, lying on the ground. If someone were to ask you to go and pick up that long board, and carry it to them, what would you do? Well, intuitively, you would grab the board near the center, and lift it. Intuitively, you know that to carry the board as effortlessly as possible, it must be BALANCED. Now, what happens if you slightly missed the center of the board, when lifting. Immediately, the board will tilt in one direction, and so, intuitively again, you would move your hand in whatever direction is needed, to achieve "balance." Once balance is achieved, the board becomes relatively easy to carry. Now, imagine that you were required to carry the board, but with your hand roughly a foot from the end of the board -- i.e. in an "imbalanced" position. The board's "absolute weight" has not changed AT ALL, and yet the board would be substantially more difficult to carry. Reason being, the "effective weight" of the board is greater, when it is imbalanced.

Basically, the explanation of this situation lies in physics, and concepts of fulcrums and levers and such. But, to simplify for those whose interest in science might, let's just say, "fall short of their interest in detecting," there's another simple analogy that can be used, and that's the example of the teeter-totter at the old school playground. The teeter-totter is, of course, similar to my example above -- simply a board, that rests on a "fulcrum" at the center of the board. While in the above example, your hand was the "fulcrum," in this case the fulcrum is usually a metal bar, positioned at the center of the board. In the case of your detector, your HAND, holding the handle, is the fulcrum, and your shaft is analogous to the "board."

Now, consider a 50-pound child sitting at one end of the teeter-totter, and no child at the other. Now imagine trying to lift the child off the ground, by "pushing down" on the "childless" end of the teeter-totter. Difficult, right? Now, imagine that I set a 25-pound bag of sand in the empty seat. While the child would still not be lifted off the ground, it would be MUCH easier for you to lift the child off the ground, with the assistance of the sand bag, correct? That's the equivalent of adding counterweight to your detector. By adding weight on the opposite end of the shaft from the coil, that weight is assisting you in lifting the coil off the ground, and then keeping it floating, over time, as you detect. Next, imagine adding another 25-pound bag of sand. At this point, you've achieved "perfect balance." The other child is lifted off the ground, and now "floats" in the air. This same effect can be achieved by adding enough weight to "perfectly balance" your coil.

Hopefully, these analogies and explanations have helped to illustrate that while adding counterweight to a shaft DOES, of course, increase the absolute weight of the machine, counterweighting will -- in most cases -- make swinging the machine, and keeping the coil floating just off the ground, MUCH more simple, and thus comfortable. Because the small muscles in your wrist are primarily responsible for exerting the force needed to keep the coil floating, this then manifests as "repetetive stress," from an "ergonomics" perspective. The wrist muscles are insufficient to sustain such coil weight over long periods of time, eventually resulting in fatigue -- which then often extends to your elbow, shoulder, etc. And so, if you are experiencing such fatigue and/or discomfort, it is very likely that counterweighting the shaft would bring substantial, welcome relief; I have hundreds of customers who can attest to the fact that counterweighting is -- again, somewhat paradoxically -- the solution. First lightening the machine as much as possible, with a carbon-fiber shaft, and then adding a bit of weight in the right location, is in my opinion the very best way to achieve a more comfortable, and thus enjoyable, detecting experience. ... [more]

Essentially, the answer to this question is provided to the customer by the machine itself! In other words, if a customer is experiencing fatigue or discomfort after an extended period of swinging their machine, particularly in their wrist, and often then into the forearm and the elbow, and sometimes the shoulder and even possibly into the back muscles at times, then YES! When this type of fatigue or discomfort is present, then counterweighting will almost always make swinging the detector more comfortable. ... [more]

The amount of counterweight that is needed to bring comfort to a given customer, requires consideration of a number of variables (some of these variables include the length you extend your shaft to (relative to your height), which machine you swing, which coils you use, etc.) However, to simplify this process, I am always willing to engage in a "fitting process" with each customer. This allows me to hone in on an appropriate amount of counterweighting for each individual, so as to achieve the desired result.

The process involves a bit of back-and-forth conversation with the prospective customer, where I ask a number of questions. The answers to these questions help me to determine what length of counterweight is needed. As a general rule, I like to try and keep the counterweight tube as short as possible, but of course still long enough to contain the needed amount of weight. With that said, the amount of weight inside the counterweight is adjustable -- just by unscrewing the counterweight's cap, and adding or removing bags of weight as needed. Therefore, a customer can then experiment with different weight combinations, to "zero in" on just the right amount of weight for their circumstances (and for the coil in use at the time). So, essentially, the "fitting process" I offer prior to ordering is used to determine the necessary range of weights that a customer likely will need (so that I can offer the appropriate length of counterweight). And then, the customer is able to "fine-tune," and find exactly the right amount of weight that is needed to achieve comfort, through a bit of "trial and error," using the different weight combinations that are available with their specific counterweight tube. ... [more]

That depends upon which machine or scoop handle you are interested in purchasing for. The colors available vary from brand to brand, but are usually indicated on the "products" page for that brand. Some brands are only offered in black, or in a couple of colors, others are available in a wide assortment of color options. At times, I can even produce a shaft in a color that is not generally available, but that depends upon circumstances at the time of your order. Please see the "products" pages for the brand you are interested in, or feel free to reach out to me via email at , and I'll be happy to chat with you, and send pictures. ... [more]

I always seek to meet customer needs to the best of my ability, and custom colors are no exception. I've built a number of shafts for customers in colors that I don't normally offer -- but, it's not always possible. Often, my suppliers will require me to order a specific, minimum number of tubes in a given size and color before they will be willing to produce. Therefore, producing one shaft in a specific color is sometimes not feasible, if it would require the purchase of multiple additional tubes of those same colors and sizes. At other times, the color is simply not available in the market. Still, there are instances when I am able to purchase tubes in the desired color, so please reach out to me if you are interested in a specific, custom color, and I'll be happy to see what may be possible. ... [more]

In short, the answer is YES! I am always willing to work with you on a shaft design that fits any needs you may have, that require something other than one of my "standard" shaft options. In most cases, I can come up with something that accomplishes whatever needs you may have. Do you need more shaft extension length capability, and thus a longer "tall-man" lower rod? No problem! Do you prefer a three-piece "travel" type rod, as opposed to the standard two-piece shafts that I generally offer (or a two-piece "travel-type" sand scoop handle)? I'm happy to build it! I've built custom one-piece "dive" shafts; I've done "short shafts" for younger/shorter detectorists; I've designed shafts with different colors for each of the shaft sections (to match the color scheme of a favorite sports team, for instance); I've even built shafts with sections designed to very specific lengths, so that the shaft can be broken down to fit perfectly into a specific model of hard case you may have. Whatever your needs, please feel free to reach out to me, as "custom builds" are something I enjoy; I always seek to please my customers, and what better way than a truly custom shaft build, that fits your specific needs? ... [more]

I always do my best to respond to any customer requests. Often, I can work up a design for as shaft or scoop handle to fit a machine or scoop that I don't typically build a shaft for -- WITH THE CAVEAT that I generally don't build shafts for detectors that require "non-round" tubes. Reason being, shafts with "non-round" tubes are much more difficult/expensive to build, as non-round carbon-fiber tubes require expensive molds for production (unlike round tubes, which are produced via a simpler "roll-wrapping" process that is more "universal," and offered by all carbon tube manufacturers, and thus at more competitive prices).

Otherwise, assuming round tubes can be used, I can often (though not always) come up with a nice design, to meet your needs. At times, it may require you to mail the detector to me, so that I can take accurate measurements, etc. But often, if you are willing to engage in some detailed back-and-forth conversation, and if you have access to, and can read, a digital caliper, then I can often work with you by email or -- if necessary, by phone -- to ascertain the necessary measurements and information to design a shaft for your needs. There is generally a 6 to 8 week lead time required, to work up the design, order the parts and then have them produced and shipped to me, but I'm always happy to work with you to see "what is possible!" ... [more]

In general, I try to keep several of my standard shaft and scoop-handle options pre-built, and thus ready to ship. When I do not have the shaft you are interested in pre-built (which of course will be the case with any custom-built shaft), and assuming I have the necessary parts in stock, I generally require 3 to 5 days after payment, to allow time for the shaft to be built, for the epoxy to fully cure, and then to package the shaft and prepare a shipping label.

For custom builds which I do not have parts in stock for, longer wait times are required (generally 4 to 8 weeks) so that parts can be ordered, produced, and then shipped to me. In these cases, I try to offer accurate time estimates, but patience is appreciated as the acquisition of parts has become more difficult due to ongoing supply-chain issues. You can check in with me at any time for a "progress update," and I try to provide timely updates whenever I receive new information. ... [more]

For most of the items offered on my website, ordering begins via email. Since so much of what I do involves at least some "customization," I like to confirm that I know just what is needed, prior to the ordering process. So, when you are ready to place an order, simply email me at . Once we've worked out the details, I'll email you a full price quote. Should you then decide to purchase, we can discuss the various payment options that are available (see question 14, below). Most of my customers prefer to pay with either credit or debit card, or with PayPal. For these customers, I email (via my PayPal account) a link to an itemized invoice; this invoice then allows payment with either credit or debit card, or via PayPal, simply by clicking the "Pay" button on the invoice. If the aforementioned payment options are not convenient, I also offer payment via Venmo and Google Pay, and can also accept postal money orders if you prefer not to pay electronically. ... [more]

Most of my customers prefer to pay using PayPal, or via debit or credit card, and these are very convenient forms of payment for me as well. If you prefer other options, I can also accept Venmo, and Google Pay, or I can accept postal money orders as well. ... [more]

Since so much of the shaft-building work that I do involves a "custom" element -- whether it be a true "custom-shaft build," or just determining the optimal amount of counterweighting you may need -- I usually like speak with my customers prior to ordering, to be sure that I have all the details correct. Therefore, I don't offer "direct purchase" for most items, at this time. I do offer my "CarbonPro" line of shafts for direct "buy-it-now" purchase, and will expand this option to other non-customizable items, in the future. ... [more]

Once your item is shipped, and the package receives its first tracking scan, you will receive an email from my ShipStation account, that will contain your tracking information. ... [more]

Most of my larger items that are shipped within the lower 48 states, are shipped via UPS Ground, with smaller items shipped either via USPS Priority Mail, or USPS First Class. The shipping charges I offer in my price quotes reflect these shipping carriers/methods. However, I am always willing to use any method of shipment that a customer may prefer, if the higher shipping costs are not a concern. FedEx Ground is usually more expensive than UPS, as is USPS for most items due to the assessment of surcharges imposed by USPS for longer items ($4 surcharge for packages over 22", and $15 surcharge for packages over 30"). The exception to this is when shipping to Alaska or Hawaii, or military/APO addresses, in which case I ship USPS Priority Mail. While these destinations still incur the USPS "large package" surcharges, the USPS rates generally still end up less expensive than UPS or FedEx rates. If you need your items more quickly, 2nd-Day air, or overnight shipping options are also available, and I can offer shipping quotes to help determine the best balance of cost vs. shipping time. For my international customers, I generally ship UPS Worldwide Expedited, but -- again -- other options are available upon request. ... [more]

Yes, absolutely! I am always happy to serve overseas customers. The only considerations are that international shipping rates can be rather costly (I'm always happy to provide shipping quotes), and the VAT/import duties assessed by many countries can at times be rather expensive also (and I'm unable to advise of these charges, since each country is different; if you are unfamiliar with these charges, please contact the appropriate agency in your country, to estimate these charges). Despite the added costs, I have many customers from all over the world and am always happy to serve! ... [more]

When purchasing from Steve's Detector Rods, you can be confident that you will receive the very highest level of customer service -- from your first contact with me, all the way through the purchase process, AND BEYOND. I am fully committed to 100% customer satisfaction, and for me, that's not a cliche, it's simply the way I do business. Honesty, integrity, offering superior-quality products, and a commitment to serving customers to the best of my ability; these qualities serve as the foundation of my company. If for any reason you are not satisfied with your purchase, please contact me, and you can be assured that I will work with you to achieve an appropriate solution to the issue at hand -- a solution that will ensure your complete satisfaction, and exceed your expectations.

In general, each item I sell carries a full two-year warranty against any defects in materials or manufacturing. Simply notify me of the issue, return the item, and I will offer either a brand-new replacement, or a full refund of the purchase price of the item (depending upon which resolution the customer prefers). However, I will also work to resolve any issues that may arise -- in a fair and reasonable manner -- even if unrelated to manufacturing defects, or falling outside of the warranty period. Again, my goal is 100% customer satisfaction, and I am confident that you will experience that, as one of my customers. ... [more]

The easiest way to contact me is via email; my email address is . You can also send me a message on my Facebook business page. ... [more]